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Posts Tagged ‘pueblo blanco’

La Magia

In Practice, Presentation on March 4, 2014 at 10:06 am

La Magia

I have written about Benarrabá before and about the spell it holds over us. Even by pueblo blanco standards, it is tiny, hidden from view at the end of a series of hairpin turns, a kilometre or so from the road that threads along the eastern side of the Genal Valley and ends up in Ronda. A succession of larger pueblos, with names from the days when this was Berber high ground, adorn the road like a string of gleaming worry beads.

Unlike them, it is hard to imagine Benarrabá expanding or modernising. Expansion, in fact, is impossible – the town is draped across a narrow ridge that offers no more space – and any modernisation going on around here is going on in Gaucín, a few kilometres down the road, so this little pueblo of six hundred souls sparkles alone in the green velvet of the valley, isolated on its summit but connected by sight – and the ineffables of culture and history – with other tiny towns, visible in the distance on the other side of the river.

We come in February every time, the Andalucian winter just beginning to lift and the skies wet with heavy raincloud. The topography always seems to punch a few holes in the grey blanket, though, and vertical shafts of sunlight play across the slopes as if painted there by a master; the brilliant sun shines through the murk like a miracle, even as mist envelops the hills above the slanted little settlement that has never failed to enchant. More

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El Gastor

In Practice, Production on September 4, 2013 at 10:36 am

El Gastor

“You’d have a shit life,” says K, leafing through one of those magazines of hers in a deck chair out by the kidney-shaped pool, “without me.”

Strong words, but I believe she has me on this one. I give the proposition a moment’s thought, just in case, but no – I’ve got nothing. Still, I like to give as good as I get and after a brief period of reflection I manage to deliver a retort I think I can live with.

“We’re going to need more wine.”

“We have two bottles,” she says, eyes on the page.

“We have one bottle.” It’s exhilarating to be a step ahead of her. “I used some for the chicken.”

She looks up.

“You used a whole bottle of wine for your chicken?”

I shrug, lacking a magazine of my own to hide behind.

“That’s coq-au-vin, I’m afraid.”

She returns to her portfolio of cranky, hungry young women teetering on heels in what I assume are circus costumes.

You’re a coq-au-vin, I’m afraid.”

I pick up my book. That’s as maybe, I think to myself, but we are going to need more wine. More